Brand New 2021 Nukeproof Mega Carbon 290 Custom Bike Build

This is my new bike and it has been some months in the making! Availability of parts is one thing but the build has also had to fit in around a busy work schedule, of course our loyal customers have had to come first.

But now it is fully built up, here is a look over of my brand new 2021 Nukeproof Mega enduro bike with details on which parts I have chosen and why along with some of my suspension set up.

So looks pretty cool right?! I am not really one for colour matching each component and bright anodised parts but I quite like the stealth look VS the silver components and spokes. Also the fact the Grey forks kind of match the frame was an unintended bonus as I actually thought the frame would be blue. More on the bike..

The frame is a full carbon Nukeproof Mega in size Large with 29” wheels and 160mm of rear suspension travel. I am 6’2 exactly and according to Nukeproof should actually fit slightly better onto the new XL size that the now do the Mega in. The geometry numbers of this frame however slightly better matched my old frame (an older Nukeproof Mega in large) so I was reluctant to massively upsize when I felt comfortable on the old frame. Yes this is a slight downsize in the grand scheme of things but the way bikes are getting bigger and bigger and most enduro tracks are still quite tight and technical on the whole, I decided a slightly smaller build would be more appropriate especially for the mostly steep and technical riding that I do.

Suspension forks… I have always been a fan of Rockshox Suspension for no particular reason other than I prefer it over Fox and most other brands I have used. The new ZEB for was the obvious choice for me and it is a bit cheaper than the Fox alternative also they look really cool.

This bike is designed to run with a 170mm fork upfront, however I decided to add 10mm and I run the ZEB in 180mm of travel. I have always been a Downhill rider and it pains me a little bit to not own a DH bike so bulking up my enduro bike seems to be the best alternative to me… Perhaps I should have gone for the Nukeproof Giga which has even more travel?? Either way I didn’t and now it is too late.

I am actually yet to take my own geometry readings to see how this longer fork messes with the bike’s numbers but I can confirm it does feel pretty good to ride.

Currently I run 83PSI in the fork with 2 volume spacers and 5 clicks of Low Speed Compression. The fork feels really supple but I have a feeling I will increase the air pressure once I have ridden it on some gnarlier tracks as I think it will ‘dive’ too much in steep turns etc.

While we are on the topic of suspension here is a bit about my rear shock… I run the Rockshox Super Deluxe Ultimate with the Megneg Aircan Upgrade. This shock has been taken from my old bike because I loved it so much so it is actually a year old now. I have serviced and fully rebuilt it for this bike and only slightly changed the settings from the previous bike.

I weigh 82KG and run the shock with 213PSI which runs at around 27% sag on this frame. I run the Megneg air can which allows you to further tune the negative spring of the shock, basically this means you can fine tune how the shock progresses through its travel to get it to feel nice and supple at the start of its movement, a little bit like a coil shock. I currently run 2 bands in the Megneg air can and I do not run any volume reduction spacers in the shock along with 4 clicks of low speed compression.

Drivetrain… The seemingly life long debate for any cyclist of which is better, SRAM or Shimano? Well I can’t really answer that but I can say I personally prefer SRAM as it looks better and in my opinion works better all be it this is up for debate in the long term.

I run a 12speed Eagle set up with a SRAM GX rear mech (which may change very soon to the wireless upgrade) an X01 Cassette and XX1 chain in black. EDIT - I can confirm I have now upgraded to the GX AXS mech and shifter! As you can see I have upgraded the jockey wheels to aluminium wheels along with a matchy matchy Silver Unite Components 32t front chainring. I also use a Unite Components chain device to keep weight down and secure the chain on bumpy trails.

While these bars don’t really match anything else on the bike, If you get Renthal handlebars you have to get them in the classic gold colour way! I am not a fan of carbon, believe it or not, so I choose Renthal 35mm clamp Fatbars with a 30mm rise and cut to 770mm. These are paired with a 50mm Renthal Apex stem to increase the reach that bit more.

The brakes were a slightly tougher decision between SRAM and Shimano. I really like both and power wise there is not really a lot in it. In the end I went for Shimano XTR brakes simply because I already had some matching Shimano XT rotors in 203mm. I have also become quite used the feel of Shimano brake levers which to me is the most important thing. I think that once you get used to how a brake works and feels it will perform better for you than something else even if on paper the other brakes are better… If that makes sense?!

I love these wheels! These are hand built DT Swiss 240 Hubs and DT EX471 DH Rims. I have laced the wheels with silver Sapim Race spokes because I have always had the best results with Sapim and I just think silver spokes look better! The rear is a 32h 3 cross while the front wheel is 28h. Again using a 3 cross pattern but 4 less spokes. Some say to save weight but this may also be because the 32h front hub was not available for ages!

As I previously said, I am not the biggest fan of carbon, so I prefer a tough aluminium rim that is easily replaceable should the worst happen. I run these with Michelin DH22 tires 24psi front and 27psi rear. They are really heavy and draggy but I love the compound, they seem to grip well in all conditions and they also have a really tough sidewall so no cuts or flats so far! They are of course set up tubeless.

Finally the dropper. Probably the least flashy bit of kit on the whole bike, a Brand X Ascend 200mm cable actuated dropper seat post. While relatively cheap and cheerful, I have always chosen the Brand X post. This is because you more than get your moneys worth. It is not an over engineered design like many others and very easily serviced. I have run this exact post for nearly 2 years and it is as good as the day I fitted it all be it with a few new cables along the way.

Thanks for taking the time to read the bike check. If there is anything else you would like to know feel free to drop us a message.

How To Hold a Carbon Bike In a Bike Stand | Bike Hack

There are some horror stories out there of clamping bike frames in a bike stand only to crack or dent the tubing of the frame, effectively killing your bike. I have actually witnessed this happen to a customer’s bike when working in a well known bike shop (no it wasn’t me that did it!).

As bicycles, road bikes in particular, adopt carbon fibre frames and seat posts as standard, in addition to looking so aerodynamic that they look more like spaceships… Clamping the bike via the seat post in a conventional bike stand can prove quite tricky.

Of course a traditional post can be clamped safely in a bike stand, carbon or not, providing care is taken to ensure that there is not too much force applied. But what happens when you want to hold your super aero or carbon fibre frame safely to carry our maintenance without the risk or any damage occurring? We have a very cheap and easy trick to solve this problem and it is as simple a an old set of road bike handle bars with some bar tape applied. You simply clamp the old handle bars in the bike stand positioned so that they form 2 hooks for the bike. The bar tape will protect from any scratches and ensure that you do not risk damaging your bike with the stand.

How To Service Bike Pedals

Servicing bike pedals is not often something particularly high up on the to do list! This is probably because stiff or crunchy pedals are not as easy to notice as say wheel bearing wear for example. While pedals are built pretty tough, regularly stripping the axle out and re greasing the bushings can dramatically increase the life of your pedals, especially as they are in the brunt of the mud on bike rides this time of year.

Now, not all bicycle pedals are serviceable. Most pedals of any quality usually are though and follow the same, if not a very similar, process to the one we show on the Funn Ripper SPD pedals.

What You Need To Service Your Bike Pedals:

• Socket set

• Allen keys

• Rag & tissues

• Spray oil

• Grease

• Emery paper - Optional

Stripping down your pedals

Firstly remove your pedals from your bike. Remember the left hand (non drive side) pedal has a reverse thread so will loosen when turned clockwise! There is usually an end cap on the outer shell of the pedals, this is to protect from mud. Remove this to expose a smaller nut, pictured here, that holds the axle in to the pedal.

Now holding the axle in place using an 8mm Allen key, undo the smaller nut. Note this nut on the right hand (drive side) pedal may also be reverse thread!

It may be a bit stiff, but with this small nut removed the axle should pull out. As you can see… mine is pretty grim!

Now thoroughly clean out the pedal casing and axle. Spray oil into the pedal and clean by pushing in some tissue or thin cloth.

Now wipe down the pedal axle. You may find some particularly tough grime on the axle like mine in the picture. If this is the case, spray on some oil and rub with a very fine emery paper.

Be careful not to overdo it, simply use the paper to remove the grime, not score the axle!

Now apply grease to the axle and pedal body. I put quite a lot on and any excess is force out the end when you re fit the axle.

Now re fit the axle and tighten the locking nut, again remember the drive side may be reverse thread. Then refit the end cap from the pedal.

Job done! Just got to re fit them to the bike. This is a simple job and it makes a real difference to the resistance of the pedals when spinning on the axles. Some pedals may have slightly different process but generally if they are serviceable pedals it will be very similar to the method described above.

Thanks for reading, feel free to get in contact with any questions.